1. Attach Lace to Finished Side of Skirt Hems 2. Contrasting Top Stitch 3. Decorative Edging Stitch 4. Decorative Stitching on Ribbon Trim 5. Horizontal Trims 6. How to Attach Lace and Ribbon to Sleeves 7. How to Attach Lace to Underside of Skirt Hems 8. How to Gather Skirts 9. How to Hand Sew Doll Bodies and Clothes

10. How to Make a Lined Bodice 11. How to Make a Ribbon Waistband 12. How to Make Contrasting Panels in Skirts 13. How to Make Rolled Hems 14. How to Sew Skirt to Bodice 15. How to Sew On Sticky Tape Closures 16. Press then Sew Doll Clothes 17. Ribbon and Lace Collars 18. Stand Up Collars 19. Vertical Trims

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1. Attach Lace to Finished Side of Skirt Hems

This is an easy method to attach lace to the finished side of skirt hems of your doll dresses.

1. The first step is to determine how long the finished skirt is to be.

2. Then measure the width of lace that will show after being sewn on.

3. The finished skirt length needs to include the material and lace combination.

4. Allow enough of the skirt material to make a hem by folding up one half inch twice and blind stitching.

5. To attach lace to skirt hem, pin top edge of lace to finished side of skirt at hemline and sew in place as in photo.

By making a hem in the material first you see a nice finish on the underside of the skirt if the skirt gets turned up a bit in playing.

A hem in the material also gives a better drape to the finished skirt.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

2. Constrasting Top Stitch

Here are two ways I use contrasting hand-sewn top stitching on the collars of doll costumes.

In the dress example, I used 6 strand pink embroidery floss to hand top stitch down the front sides, to the lower point of the white lace collar.

The pink picks up on the pink print in the doll dress.

With all contrasting top stitching I try to space the top and underside stitch evenly, about one eighth inch for stitch and one eighth inch space.

For the Raggedy Andy collar I used red 6 strand floss with the same one eighth inch stitch and one eighth inch spacing pattern.

This time I used a different color than the material in the costume to add more interest to the outfit.

A red cross grain ribbon as the neck tie completes the costume.

Article and photo credits Susan Kramer

3. Decorative Edging Stitch

I’d like to share my technique for edging doll dress sleeves and necklines in what I call an open buttonhole stitch.

- I proceed as if I am making a buttonhole stitch along the folded edge.

But, I do not pull the thread tight; instead I leave about 1/4 inch of loop, and then take one small plain overlapping stitch at the base of the buttonhole stitch to anchor the loop, and I pull that tight.

- I keep the open buttonhole stitches spaced about 1/4 inch apart.

- Mostly I use 6-strand embroidery floss in either a contrasting color to the material or closely matching a color in the material.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

4. Decorative Stitching on Ribbon Trim

This tutorial is for learning how to make decorative stitching right on top of ribbon trims on your doll making projects.

In the photo you will see my 18 inch Amanda cloth doll modeling a dress with decorative embroidered ribbon trims - and Floppy is at her side keeping her company. In case you are new to the Cyber Doll House, Floppy is our resident mascot dog, store-bought, but loved nonetheless.

It is easiest to stitch decorative designs overtop of one quarter inch wide ribbon or wider. And that is what you see in this photo.

How to

- First complete sewing together your project, such as a dress, skirt or blouse.

- Lay out several ribbons and decide which colors to use, and where you will put them. Choose washable ribbons if your project will be laundered.

- Either satin or cross grain ribbon work well. Remember, it should be at least one quarter inch wide.

- Using tiny running stitches hand sew the ribbon onto the material. I make 2 rows, each just inside the outside edge - that is where they are least visible.

- Now for the decorative stitches - pull out your collection of floss and decide which colors look best overlaying the ribbon trim.

- What I like to do first is sew Xs as in the photo, either using one color for all the Xs or every other X in a contrasting color. I use 6 strand embroidery floss so the design will stand out nicely above the surface. And I space the Xs one inch (2.5cm) a part.

- Alternately, between the Xs I embroider a French knot in a contrasting color.

That is really all there is to decorating ribbon trim. The most important part is the foundation, and that is sewing the ribbon securely to the doll clothing before beginning the sewing phase.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

5. Horizontal Trims

Adding horizontal ribbon trims enhances the attractiveness of doll clothes. It can turn an everyday school dress into a party frock!

Helene, my Corolle 18 inch doll, like an American Girl doll, is modeling this pink calico short sleeve dress.

Looking closely at the photo you'll see I've used 3 different patterns and textures of ribbon, that when used together compliment each other to create the rich effect.

In olden times fancy dresses had row upon row of ribbon sewn on the dresses made for the wealthiest women.

Of special note is the arrangement of ribbons to form the lower bodice decoration. It is a combination of 2 ribbons. The lower ribbon is one quarter inch wide and is hand sewn on first with tiny stitches.

Just above and overlapping it I've sewn on a narrow three eighths inch wide shiny satin ribbon.

The combination of the 2 ribbons next to each other gives the illusion of a very intricate swath.

These ribbons work with different widths and textures and match the dress, but you could also use contrasting ribbon for a dramatic effect.

I hand sew doll clothes - it turns them into couture fashions for dolls. I learned recently that couture clothing is hand-sewn. Knowing this helps explain "some" of the fabulous prices charged. But, why not make your doll wardrobe a couture collection, also, by choosing special fabrics and individual trims like on our model, Helene.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

6. How to Attach Lace and Ribbon to Sleeve Edges

This is an easy method to attach lace and ribbon at the lower sleeve edge of your dressy and fancy doll clothes. Many colors of lace and ribbon are available to choose from. Lay out some combinations to see how they work together before making your final choice.

The photo below shows my 18 inch Gotz doll, Emily, modeling this very pretty dress with the sleeve edges finished like in this tutorial.

Technique for sewing the sleeve edge with lace and ribbon

Before sewing sleeve underarm seam together sew on the ribbon and lace at the lower edge.

- Turn lower edge of short sleeve up one quarter inch to finished side of sleeve and baste in place.

- Gather lower sleeve edge to width needed so doll's hand can still slip through the opening.

- Baste lace over gathered seam with lace extended down from dress as in photo.

- Sew ribbon over lace seam as in photo. I like to hand sew the ribbon on to the sleeve so I can work around the design on the ribbon.

- Sew together underarm seam and continue with the bodice and dress construction.

I prefer to use satin ribbons because on small doll clothes I think the satin makes the dress looked fancier. But the choice is yours.

Consider trims for doll dresses after choosing the fabric for the bodice, sleeves and skirt. You can create the look of a blouse and skirt when making a dress just by using a plain fabric for the bodice and a patterned material for the skirt.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

7. How to Attach Lace to Underside of Skirt Hems

This is an easy method to attach lace to the underside of skirt hems of your doll dresses.

1. The first step is to determine how long the finished skirt is to be.

2. Then measure the width of lace that will show after being sewn on.

3. The finished skirt length needs to include the material and lace combination.

4. Allow enough of the skirt material (red in the photo) to make a hem by folding up one half inch twice and blind stitching.

5. To attach lace to skirt hem, pin top edge of lace to underside of skirt hem and sew in place right along lower skirt edge as in photo.

By making a hem in the material first you see a nice finish on the underside of the skirt if the skirt gets turned up a bit in playing. A hem in the material also gives a better drape to the finished skirt.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

8. How to Gather Skirts

When working with little items such as doll costumes it is important that the gathers are evenly spaced.

Here's my technique

- Use material twice the width of the waistline.

- Sew 2 rows of basting stitches - one just above AND one just below the seam line.

- Pull the threads to the waist measurements and arrange the gathered space evenly.

- Then join skirt to bodice between the two gathered rows.

- Now carefully snip out the line of gathers below the waist seam and pull out the loose threads.

Voila! An evenly spaced gathered seam with a professional look!

(In the photo above notice a row of top stitching along lower edge of bodice to help underlying gathered seam lay flat.)

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

9. How to Hand Sew Doll Bodies and Clothes

I recommend sewing doll bodies and their clothes by hand for ease of manipulating the small pieces and for a finished quality look.

I hand sew all most of my dolls and their clothing using either one strand of quilting or buttonhole thread. If the doll is not going to have much rough use you could also use cotton / polyester thread which is less expensive. Be sure to double your strand of yarn when sewing with it, though.

I knot the thread on the underside of seams where it will not be seen. When at the end of a thread and have made my knot I cut the thread leaving one quarter inch hanging just incase the knots loosen.

I keep in mind that my grandkids will be putting these clothes on and off their dolls and stuffed animals, so make the sewing as strong as possible.

Another hint for your handsewn items is keep an outfit all together in a half gallon size clear ziplock bag.

For embroidering features on doll faces and for embellishing clothing I use either 6-strand floss, or for a small design I separate a sewing length of floss in half so it is just 3 strands.

To knot on yarn wigs I use either 4-ply wool or acrylic yarn. My recommendation here is to make sure your choice of yarn for wigs washes nicely, so you can use the washing machine to launder the whole doll.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

10. How to Make a Lined Bodice

Cut out 2 sets of bodice pattern pieces - one set will be the lining. The entire bodice is lined.

With right sides of back and front bodice facing, sew together at shoulders. Press seam open. Repeat for lining.

See illustration.

Align the good side of bodice to the good side of bodice lining and sew along all edges except lower edge.

Clip curves, turn inside out and bring front and back side seams just together to abut seams.

Blind stitch front of bodice to back of bodice at these side seams.

Try to make tiny stitches when you are sewing by hand so the seams do not pull apart. I find this is a concern with some of my doll clothes making on very small pieces of clothing.

If you are sewing by machine set the tension to 12 stitches per inch. This is a tight enough stitch so it won't pull out and at the same time large enough to get a seam ripper into if you have to open a seam.

Another concern on curved seams is the clipping at one quarter to one half inch intervals. Be sure not to clip into the seam as you will be left with a hole at that part of the seam, and end up having to make your seam larger to repair it.

Unfortunately, with my eyesight not what it used to be I have to be extra careful clipping curves.

I remember my home economics teacher paying close attention to the way we clipped the curved seams on our boat neck blouse!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

11. How to Make a Ribbon Waistband

A ribbon waistband is so attractive on a doll pinafore or apron. In the photo below you can see how the proportion of ribbon fits with the scale of a doll pinafore that I made for an 18 inch full-bodied doll, like those in the American Girl series and the Gotz, Pleasant Day, and Corrolle dolls.

The ribbon I used is a fabric satin ribbon that is one inch (2.5cm) wide. It is important that you use a washable fabric ribbon so it doesn't fall a part when washed.

I also use washable cross grain ribbons but I don't think they look as fancy as the satin ribbon. But cross grain is perfectly suitable for an outfit for a trip to the city or other nice occasion.

The heavier the ribbon the better it will hold its shape as a waistband, and the nicer the drape will be in the bow in the back of the apron / pinafore.

Waistband construction

- Measure the waist of your doll and then add the amount you'll need to tie the bow. For the outfit shown in the photo to fit the full-bodied 18 inch dolls, the waist is about 12 inches. I used a one yard (one meter) length of ribbon for the waistband and bow. It is all one piece.

- Hem the center back seams or the pinafore before beginning the waistband.

- Gather the waist of the pinafore and gather a second row just below the first line. This makes nice small and fairly even pleats coming down from the waist and the fabric lays nicer.

- On the inside of the waistband temporarily attach a safety pin to the center point.

- Fold your ribbon in half and temporarily attach a safety pin to the center point, also.

- Line up the inside of the ribbon on the gathers on the inside of the pinafore, matching center points. Use silk pins to attach the ribbon and then remove the safety pins.

- Sew the ribbon as pinned over the gathers the whole length of waistband and let the ends of ribbon hang loose, temporarily.

- Fold the ribbon up and over the waist, pin in place all along the waist and then sew in place with small stitches to form the waistband. If your ribbon is 1 inch wide the waistband will be one half inch high when finished, as in the photo.

- Hem the ends of the ribbon by rolling in the raw edge and hand stitching with tiny stitches. This is a nice professional finish and prevents the cut edge of ribbon from raveling.

Now dress your doll and tie the bow for a nice finish to the outfit!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

12. How to Make Contrasting Panels in Skirts

Here are directions to make contrasting panels, like pleats, on doll skirts. The model here is Emily, my 18 inch Gotz Precious Day Doll.

For the white fabric panel cut a piece of fabric the same length as the skirt and 12 inches (30cm) wide.

Stitch the sides of the white fabric to the sides of the printed fabric along the 2 seams from the waist to the hemline. This forms a tube.

Now, with skirt turned right side out bring each of the 2 edges of printed fabric to meet at center front so the white fabric is folded behind like a pleat on each side of the center front seam.

Baste the white fabric to the print fabric at the waistline. Now you can see you have a ‘kick pleat’ in front.

Make an opening 2 inches long at the top of the center back for ease of dressing. Roll the raw edges of the opening and hem.

The most important part of inserting contrasting panels in the skirt is making a nice sharp crease where the panels meet, and carefully aligning the top edge of the pleat so the underlying panel does not show at the waistline.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

13. How to Make Rolled Hems

This lesson is on how to roll and sew a narrow hem on doll clothes, so it looks proportional to the outfit.

The photo shows a rolled hem on the lower sleeve of a doll dress.

To begin

Two folds make the narrow hem, and they are too narrow to press. Practicing the technique I describe gets easier over time.

1. First, at the starting place of the hem make one tiny fold up and take two tacking stitches to hold in place.

2. Second, fold up again and this will form your finished hem line.

Make running stitches in your roll as you go along the hem. Look at the photo for reference.

I think that taking the time to make these rolled hems on doll clothes is really worth the effort. And after time they become easy to make. Have fun with your doll making projects!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

14. How to Sew Skirt to Bodice

To begin, sew back seam of skirt leaving 2 inches at top open as an extension of the center back bodice opening for ease in dressing doll.

Roll in the raw edges above top of back skirt seam and blind stitch. When dress is completed sew a velcro dot just above waistline and at neckline to overlap bodice back one fourth inch.

Gather one eighth inch from top edge of skirt so it matches measurement of lower edge of bodice.

Gather a 2nd line of temporary basting stitching one quarter inch below waist line. This holds gathers in place nicely till bodice is sewn onto skirt.

Sew bodice to skirt

Fold under one fourth inch along lower edge of bodice and lay over top of skirt. Join together with topstitching as in close up photo. This technique forms a nice flat seam.

After sewing bodice to skirt with topstitching pull out the temporary line of gathers below the waist seam.

To make hem at lower edge of skirt turn up hem one half inch twice and blind stitch.

Have fun learning the technique to join a skirt to a bodice!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

15. How to Sew on Sticky Tape Closures

The invention of Velcro® brand sticky tape closures has been a boon in making doll clothes. No longer do you have to worry about buttons or metal hooks and eyes or snaps being pulled off and swallowed by your youngest doll clothes recipients.

What you lose in esthetics is more than made up by safety considerations.

In the photo you can see how I use the sticky tape for closures at the back of doll dresses. In this example I took a 3 inch long strip and cut it lengthwise. In this way the narrow closure is more in proportion to the dress back.

After cutting my strip I try the dress on the doll, overlap middle back edges, left over right. This gives me the spot to lay the strips. I lay the harder plastic grips on the bottom side and lay the softer side over.

This strip of fastener in the photo has a sticky backing so I can place it on the material without having to pin it in place. That is a very handy improvement over the smooth backed kinds - especially for doll clothes.

Then I use a heavy duty hand sewing needle threaded with buttonhole or quilting thread, and using a small running stitch sew from bottom to top and back down to attach each of the 2 part strips. If your sewing needle becomes sticky clean it with nail polish remover.

Alternately to sewing the narrow strips on the back middle seam you could use the sticky velcro dots available in craft and hobby stores. Sew them on with a few small stitches around the outside edge.

When the dress is on the doll it is not even noticeable that you've used this modern method of closure!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

16. Press Then Sew Doll Clothes

The easiest method I have found to sew doll clothes together as neatly and swiftly as possible is to press the cut out pieces, then also iron all edges that will be turned in. Then pin together and sew together.

In the photo you can just see the turned up hem on the bright yellow calico lower sleeve. It is turned up one quarter inch to the finished side and a row of pre-gathered lace is sewn over it - also on the finished side.

To the right in the photo is a doll bodice. The shoulder seams are first sewn together then pressed to the back.

The lower edge of the bodice is turned up one quarter inch and pressed. This seam will be place over the top edge of a pleated or gathered skirt and topstitched in place.

I turn in the back center bodice seams one eighth inch twice and press - then pin and sew.

I also turn up the lower hem of the skirt twice, press and pin in place before hemming. It makes a nice crisp hem finish.

Overall with doll clothes, because you are working mostly with very small pieces, do press every seam that will need turning in before sewing the pieces together.

Then when the dress is complete you won't have to worry about trying to iron out unwanted creases!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

17. Ribbon and Lace Collars

This tutorial is an easy method to attach lace and ribbon at the neckline of your special doll dresses. I think that the lace and ribbon together form a combination that makes doll dress collars look very dressy and fancy.

In the first photo you'll see a finished lace and ribbon collar. It is being modeled by my 18 inch Gotz doll Emily.

Sewing Technique

- First sew shoulder seams of front and back bodice together and press open.

- Now, if your neck edge seam allowance is one quarter inch, clip on round edges almost to that width, about one eighth inch.

- Turn the seam allowance to finished side of bodice instead of inside. Baste in place.

- Working on the finished side of bodice, sew lace in place so that the lace falls down over the bodice and the edge of the lace is even with the neck edge.

- The ribbon is sewn over the lace. I hand sew the lace on so that I do not disturb the design on the ribbon.

See the 2nd photo for an example of the work in progress.

I recommend using either one quarter inch or one eighth inch wide ribbon for the neckline as it should be wide enough to represent a collar.

Also, my preference is for a decorated ribbon but if the dress had a busy pattern then a plain collar would give the eye some relief.

I also prefer, in general, satin more than cross grain ribbon, but again, it is really what fits with the dress material chosen.

If you decide to use a white or plain material for the dress bodice it will give the illusion of being a blouse and skirt. And it is a nice background for the lace and decorated ribbon collar.

Most of all, have fun and be creative in your choice of materials for doll dresses and the neckline finishes!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

18. Stand Up Gathered Collars

This is a tutorial for what I think is one of the more interesting collars you can make for doll dresses. It can be made instead of most other collars, too. For variety use a contrasting color from the bodice of the dress. For example, if the bodice is white, such as for a blouse, use the fabric of the skirt for the stand up collar.

Helene, my 18 inch Corolle doll is modeling this dress.

Also, the stand up collar could be in lace rather than dress fabric. The choices are limitless, and up to you to suit the individual costume.

I developed this technique quite by chance when experimenting with different ways to dress up the neckline of my doll clothes.

Here is how to make a stand up collar to fit a dress for the full bodied 18 inch dolls like American Girl, for example - and as shown in the photo.

You'll need to cut a strip of fabric 20 inches long and 2 inches wide along the grain of fabric. Fold in half, press, and gather to fit neck edge - this is assuming the neck edge is 10 inches. Fold in the raw edges at the ends one quarter inch and blind stitch closed.

In general, the fullness should be twice the length of the neck edge. And decide how high the collar should stand. Then cut the fabric twice that width plus one half inch for the seams on both long edges.

After sewing together the front and back bodice at the shoulder press the seam open so it will lie flat.

Baste right side of the gathered lace or fabric stand up collar to the good side of neck opening. The top edge of the collar will momentarily be facing downward over the bodice.

Now, using a bias strip sew one long edge to right side of neckline over the collar seam. Clip curves. Fold bias strip to inside of neckline, turning in once and blind stitch to wrong side of neckline.

Usually, I finish the back seam of bodice by turning the open back seam in twice on each center edge and hand or machine stitching to make a one-fourth inch hem.

If you check out some of the dress patterns on the BellaOnline doll making site you will see some with lace at the neckline and also other neckline finishes to choose from.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

19. Vertical Trims

Here is a fun and creative technique to create one of a kind trims on doll clothes. Your dolls will really stand out from the crowd!

An example of this method is shown in the photo. What I've done is made a wide front panel in the center front of this doll dress.

For this example I've use 2 kinds of ribbon arranged in a pattern of 3 strips that I've hand sewed parallel to each other.

Looking at the photo, the 2 outer strips are one quarter inch wide checked ribbon. The center plaid ribbon is one half inch wide and has little red flowers embroidered on.

I hand sew on my trims to hide the stitches. I used white thread in this example and only took stitches on the white areas, which is easy because of the regular patterns.

For more interest the ends of the sleeve cuffs also have the narrow checked ribbon, tying the design together.

Vertical trims add a visual impression of length to the doll, and a graceful flowing look, making them especially suitable trims for long skirts on a doll's bride dress - perhaps white on white trims.

If you have any questions about your doll making projects bring them to the Doll Making Forum at the foot of this page and let's talk about them!

Have fun with your projects!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer