Sewing a doll blanket is a fun beginning project before trying the intricacies of making doll clothes and costumes. An older child could try this project.

It is a good way to use scraps of fabric from different sewing projects and can be a welcome present that only costs the thread to sew it!

If you use centimeters, the conversion is 1” = 2.5cm.

The finished size of this blanket is 21” by 24” and is made with just 2 alternating colors.

Each finished square is 3” by 3” with 7 rows across and 8 rows down.

- Cut each square 3.5” by 3.5” to allow one quarter inch seam allowance on all sides of the square.

- You’ll need 28 squares of plain fabric and 28 squares of print fabric. I use cotton so it shrinks evenly when washed. It is lightweight enough to go in the home washer with towels of similar color.

- Lay out your pattern in 7 strips of 8 squares each.

- Sew squares together in each strip, end to end.

- Last of all, sew all strips together to finish the quilt.

- For the lining, lay your finished quilt, right sides facing on your backing material, pin down and cut out backing along outside edges of quilt. With ¼” seam allowance sew all around border except for a 6” gap for turning right side out. Clip corners, turn, press, blind stitch opening closed.

- Did you think I forgot to tell you about the stuffing? No. A doll blanket needs to be flexible and just the quilt topping and backing make it thick enough!

- Now, by hand or machine, top stitch ½” in from the edges to hold the blanket shape. A finishing touch I like is to embroider the initials of the child it is for in one corner of the top. If you’d like, hand or machine stitch across the blanket in the middle, left to right, and top to bottom.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

Are you pressed for time but would still like to make a doll blanket?

They easiest way I've found is to use a patterned pillowcase and stitch across the open end.

If you have an hour or more for your project, use your sewing machine to make a quilt block like I show here in the photo.

Directions to make the quilt block are above in the previous quilt, number 1.

Carefully center it on the pillowcase, baste it in place and finally sew through the layers.

Notice that I did not use any inner batting or stuffing for this doll blanket. That is intentional. A doll blanket needs to be thin to easily wrap around a doll.

Some Tips

- Preshrink cotton pillowcases and all quilt pieces.
- Use contrasting colors for background and foreground.
- If 2 pillowcases come in the pack make similar doll blankets with each.

Now you have some ideas to make original and special doll blankets!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

This flying feather quilt pattern for doll blankets is my design inspired by early American and native American quilts.

It is made of 20 4-inch squares. Each square is made with half white and half patterned material. See the close-up view below.

When assembling the squares for stitching together, the feather pattern is made by turning the patterned sides of the squares together and then stitching to make a rectangle.

Next make 2 horizontal lines of the finished rectangles lined up vertically.

Stitch longer, vertical sides together, then stitch the 2 horizontal sections together.

I appliqued the completed 20-square block to a pillow case and top-stitched around the edges of the pillow case and around each square to finish it.

No need to use an inner layer on doll quilts. They need to be flexible enough to wrap around dolls!

But, if you really want a little thickness I recommend a thin layer of polyester fiberfill.

Article and photo credits Susan Kramer

Here are instructions to make a 22 inch by 30 inch doll blanket featuring 2 appliqued squares.

Details of how to make the edging stitch are here.

If you use centimeters, the conversion is 1 inch = 2.5cm.

You may share this pattern with others using your own creative changes.

Supplies

- 1 yard (1 meter) of the main color (green floral in the photo).
- One third yard (one third meter) of the largest appliqued square which is the contrasting color (pink in the photo).
- A 6 inch by 6 inch swatch for the smallest square (green floral in the photo).
- Embroidery floss for the outline decorative trim.
- Heavy duty thread for the applique work. I use quilting thread.
- A thin layer of polyester batting for the middle layer.

Note: I use cotton fabric so it all pieces of fabric shrink evenly when washed. Also, cotton is lightweight enough to go in the home washer with towels of similar color. I recommend pre-washing fabric.

Construction

1. If you are using 44-45 inch wide material, use the width folded in half and cut the length at 30.5 inches allowing for a half inch hem.

2. After hemming the long edge, lay in the thin layer of polyester batting. Then fold in the end one half inch and blind stitch seam.

3. Temporarily baste in a crisscross pattern over the doll blanket to hold the batting in place. Later the applique work will hold the batting in place.

4. Cut the larger square 12.5 inches square and turn in the edges one quarter inch and iron to crease.

5. Cut the smaller square 6.5 inches square in turn in the edges one quarter inch and iron to crease.

6. Using the photo as an example applique the smaller square onto the larger square.

7. Applique the larger square (with the smaller square already attached) onto the large batted rectangle. Go through all layers of fabric when appliqueing the large square on so that the batting is held in place.

8. If you like, use the decorative edging stitch all around the outside edge to finish the doll blanket nicely. (The link for this stitch is above.) Enjoy this little doll blanket!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

Here are instructions to make a 21” by 24” appliqued doll blanket. Details of how to make the edging stitch are here.

If you use centimeters, the conversion is 1” = 2.5cm.

You may freely share this pattern with your friends.

You’ll need ¾ yard of the main color (pink in the photo) and ½ yard of the contrasting color (blue). I use cotton so it shrinks evenly when washed. It is lightweight enough to go in the home washer with towels of similar color.

- Out of the main color cut a strip 24.5” by 42.5” going across fabric and fold right sides together. Stitch using ¼” seam allowance along free edges leaving 6” open.

- Clip corners, turn right side out and blind stitch opening closed.

- Now you have a finished rectangle 21” by 24.”

- The blue rectangle is constructed next by cutting out a piece of material 17.5” by 20.5.” Turn under ¼” seam allowance all around and press.

- Lay over top of the main color and measure all around to be sure you have 2” of the main color showing as in photo. Pin in place and top stitch through all layers of quilt.

- The small pink square is the last addition. Cut a 6.5” diameter square from the main color. Turn under ¼” seam allowance all around, press material, center square so points are midway between corners of the blue rectangle and evenly centered. Top stitch close to edge all around and through all layers.

- To finish doll quilt, either top stitch ½” in from outer edge of quilt all around, or use decorative edging stitch as in photo.

This appliqued doll quilt is thick enough so you don’t need to add in any more stuffing. On the back side of the quilt the top stitching makes a nice geometric pattern; so the quilt is really reversible!

Tips
- I use quilting thread for top stitching for its strength; single strand is enough.

- Contrasting fabric works nicely as it creates an active pattern.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

Doll blankets are such fun to make because, unlike those for babies, kids or adults they can be completed relatively quickly! The finished diameter is 20 inches (50cm). If you use centimeters, the conversion is 1 inch equals 2.5cm.

This round doll blanket is offset with just one circle applique. And, the way it is set up, the shapes and colors bounce off each other. I purposely used blue in both circles to tie the design together.

If you have some lengths of fabric stashed away, lay two at a time next to each other to see how the colors and patterns work together.

When you are all done sewing, choose the color embroidery floss for the decorative edging stitch that compliments the colors. Details of how to make the edging stitch are on page 5.

Supplies

- Two thirds yard of 44 to 45 inch cotton fabric for background and lining.
- One half yard of contrasting fabric for the 14 inch (35cm) inner circle.
- Contrasting 6 strand embroidery floss for the decorative edging.
- Either matching or contrasting quilting thread.

Construction

1. Large circle: Fold material in half length wise, right sides together. Using a large bowl trace a big circle and cut out.

2. Sew pieces together all around the outside edge leaving enough space to turn right side out.

3. Turn in remaining opening and blind stitch closed.

4. Iron circle. You now have made the lining and front. This doll blanket does not need polyester fiberfill - it folds easier around your smaller dolls without it.

5. Repeat the procedure making a smaller circle.

6. Lay the smaller circle in the center of the right side of the larger circle. First pin in place, then baste in place.

7. Using small quilting stitches sew the small circle on the larger circle.

8. Sew the decorative edging stitch all around the outer edge of the larger circle. Directions of how to do the stitch are above.

Voila! You have a very interesting doll blanket sure to make any small doll cozy. This design can also be used as a doll bed coverlet. And didn't I tell you it wouldn't take very long to make!

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

This is an easy to sew fabric doll clothes or accessory case.

The finished dimensions of the cases in the photos are 11 inches (27.5cm) long and 8 inches (20cm) wide. But you could make any size to suit the doll’s wardrobe needs.

You’ll need 2 pieces of material, each 36 inches (90cm) long by 9 inches (22.5cm) wide. And, an 18 inch (45cm) length of ribbon for the closure.

To sew

Align your two pieces of material, right sides together and stitch around the outside border with half inch (1.25cm) seam allowance leaving a space open.

Clip seams at corners, then turn right side out, blind stitch opening and press.

To form the finished case, fold the length into thirds as in the photos.

Blind stitch together the sides of the back with the folded over section that will hold the clothes.

The final open section is laid over the top - think how a purse is.

Cut the length of ribbon in half and blind stitch each ribbon to the case as in photos.

Voila! You have a soft and washable case to keep those precious doll clothes or accessories safe!

Article and photo credits Susan Kramer

This is an easy project with a big reward. It keeps doll clothes instantly available hanging in the closet or wardrobe chest right along with your child's own outfits.

I got the idea from seeing a few large safety pins in the bottom of my sewing basket - the size I use to pin layers of a comforter together before tufting. Actually they are probably just the largest multipurpose size available anywhere safety pins are sold.

I've seen them in craft and fabric stores - even the large grocery stores and drug stores. Alternately, you could use diaper pins, available wherever baby products are sold.

Supplies for this very easy project to make one hanging doll clothes bag:

- One pillow case.
- 6 very large safety pins.
- Five feet strong ribbon about one half inch wide; I prefer cross grain ribbon for this project.
- One sturdy plastic molded hanger (the kind that are usually sold 5 or 10 to a packet).

To make

1. Take the pillow case and fold the hem of the open end in half toward the outside. This will be about 2 inches folded over.

2. Using the 6 large safety pins - pin the folded over hem in place all around. Use 3 safety pins on each side evenly spaced. The pins should be attached so there is a casing formed near the new fold edge. If the fold over is 2 inches then place the pins at 1 inch.

3. Looking face on at the pillow, like in the photo, start at the left side of the center safety pin and run the ribbon through the loose casing you have formed, and bring the end out on the right side of the center safety pin that you started threading the ribbon around. This secures your ribbon in position.

4. Tie a knot in the two ends of the ribbon.

5. Pull the ribbon on the knotted ends to gather the opening of the pillow case slightly.

6. Slip the knotted loop of ribbon over the neck of the hanger part that sits on the clothes rod.

Voila! Instant doll clothes fabric case - all ready to hang in the closet alongside blouses or dresses to keep those precious doll clothes handy!

If your daughter or granddaughter has several dolls with lots of clothes you may want to make a couple or several of these no sew hanging bags. Two would be easy enough since two pillowcases usually come in one package.

Article and photo credit Susan Kramer

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Email: susan@susankramer.com

How to Sew Cloth Dolls and Costumes plus Traceable Patterns Book by Susan Kramer

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